High flood waters may take a toll on game viewing quality in many locations.
Photo from last September at Mapula Lodge.
© Bill Given
Arrival of Another Big Okavango Delta Flood
Last year’s annual flood into Botswana was an epic one, in the end it was one of the three largest of the last 50 years.
The early flow volume of this year’s flood indicates another large one, not likely on par with last year by sheer volume of incoming water. That said, large Okavango Delta floods in sequential years can have a magnifying impact.
Typically by September flood waters have resided quite a bit and by the time the next annual flood arrives in March/April timeframe, water levels are usually very low again. However, this year as the flood has begun to arrive there is still substantial water levels remaining from last year and the existing saturation added to the new incoming flood could result in absolute water amounts that have not been seen in half a century or more.
Mapula Lodge Flooding
Already the flood has arrived at Mapula Lodge in the far north of the Delta and also at Jacana Camp on the western side of the Delta where the floods often reach first. At Jacana the water rose a meter in just four days.
Mapula Lodge Bookings to be Re-located
It has just been announced that during the high flood period, from about April through June (will depend on actual flood conditions) it will be recommended that existing Mapula Lodge bookings be moved to other options and that no new bookings be made during that period. With high waters it will take approximately an hour of challenging driving through flooded channels to reach good game drive areas and the philosophy is if a very high quality game viewing experience is not available it is best not to offer the camp.
African wild dog puppy at Mapula in 2007.
© Bill Given
It is well known that Mapula Lodge is one of my favorite safari camps and as such one of my most highly recommended. During 2009 I felt confident that despite the high floods it would continue to be a stellar area and I sent many clients there, possibly more than any other North American safari planner and the results were fantastic.
Fortunately this year I have anticipated this flood potential and have no clients booked at Mapula Lodge between now and late July. Come late July I expect Mapula to once again be paradise and with luck there will be a triumphant re-opening with a fourth consecutive July of wild dog puppies emerging from their dens. From July into October there will be some high water and challenging driving but for those who appreciate wilderness adventure it should once again be a great choice.
How Will the Flood Impact Other Botswana Safari Camps?
Many Bostswana safari camps will be negatively impacted by the flooding. One of the reasons why I appreciate working with Mapula Lodge and their operating company, Footsteps in Africa, is because they are proactive and willing to put the quality of the client experience in front of easy profits. This was evident recently when virtually every safari operator in Botswana passed on a new 2% increase in tax to their clients while Footsteps in Africa decided to hold their prices and eat the tax increase rather than put it on clients.
Botswana Game Viewing Constantly Changing - Especially During Floods
It is critical this year to choose your camps carefully with regards to the flood impacts, it is also important to realize that there are real lasting changes in the environmental dynamics within Northern Botswana as waterways like the Savuti Channel, Selinda Spillway, and Boteti River are flowing for the first time in almost three decades. The result is animal concentrations are going to change and some areas that had phenomenal game viewing 7 years ago might decline while other areas that were average could become outstanding, others may stay about the same but it is time to observe the changing Botswana landscape and monitor to select the best locations for the future.
How to Choose a Botswana Safari Camp During Record Floods
Where to Go? Back to the Future – Savute and Santawani (Sankuyo)
While things are changing dramatically, it is not altogether unpredictable. Botswana has long been known to have long wet/dry cycles that can take decades to complete which has been most well documented with the Savuti Channel.
In October, I was there to be one of the first few people to see when the Savuti Channel crossed back into Chobe National Park (Savute area) following a 27 year absence. I felt astonished to place my hand in at the advancing end of the channel knowing something very special is occurring. As of early February, the channel has finally completed its march another 15 km or so and reconnected with the Savute Marsh. These latest water patterns (likely due to tectonic shifting as well as the flooding) indicate that things are going to return to an environment similar to 25-30 years ago.
Savuti Channel enters Chobe National Park for the first time in 28 years
© Bill Given
Twenty-five to thirty years ago safari tourism to Botswana was in its absolute infancy but those who were around know the areas that were exceptional. The legend of Savute is well known due to a number of stunning films shot there by Dereck and Beverly Joubert including The Stolen River, Patterns in the Grass, Lions of Darkness, and Eternal Enemies.
It is reported that when the Savute Marsh was fed by the channel, that about 6,000 buffalo would graze in the area right through November. The concentrations of lions and spotted hyena were dense, and the area was famed for these predators.
During parts of the year large migratory herds of zebra use the area and the wide open plains make it optimal for cheetah and wild dogs hunting newborn young. While Savute has always remained a special place, largely for its starkness and massive bull elephants, I expect Savute to return to full glory over the next couple of years.
The downside is one of the main strengths of a Botswana safari is the exclusivity of private concessions where vehicles are few and off road driving and night game drives are the standard - while Savute is in a National Park where you are on road with more vehicles and have to be in camp by dark. This is a great area for a private mobile safari and that can be a tremendous value during the high season.
Cheetah have been a frequent sighting by our clients staying at Sankuyo Bush Camp in the Santawani Concession.
© Bill Given
Consider Santawani Concession During Big Flood Year
Contrary to the well known Savute, the other legendary area of twenty-five years ago is the Santawani Concession that very few people today know anything about. It is said in the 1980’s that the Santawani area had more game than the world famous Mombo had at its peak time. In fact when basically all of Northern Botswana was up for grabs for safari operations Santawani was amongst the first three or four locations selected for camps.
It’s thought that the tectonic shifts that may have closed the Savuti Channel likewise dried this area out quite a bit and the quantities of game changed with it leaving it forgotten by most. The area lies on the far east of the Okavango Delta and thus is the last area to receive any flood waters.
In the last couple of years waters have begun to push their way up the ancient channels and the wildlife is again present in very good concentrations, amongst the best I have seen anywhere in Botswana and it continues to grow. I was astounded by the quantities of animals this green season in January, and when I add the incredible sightings our clients have had throughout the green season it is ranking right up with the Kwara Concession as the most productive green season areas.
However, unlike Kwara where the floods do come in and create a rare situation where dry season viewing is not as good as the green season - the Santawani area gets better throughout the dry season as there are extensive mopane woodlands to the east that large quantities of animals return from. Santawani holds the closest permanent water to the enormous Nxai Pan and Makgadikgadi Pan areas and its believed many animals from those areas also move back into Santawani. Based on my two visits to the area, talking to other safari industry friends, and client reports I believe the Santawani Concession is already one of the top three or four game viewing areas at anytime of the year and I believe increased flooding is going to make it even better without the major logistical problems that the floods will cause in many other areas, thus this is my top pick for the foreseeable future.
Sankuyo Bush Camp guest tent in the Santawani Concession.
© Bill Given
The fantastic irony is while I believe the Santawani Concession is amongst the best wildlife viewing areas the accommodation choices, Sankuyo Bush Camp and Santawani Lodge, are the most affordable in any private concession in Botswana. For me Sankuyo Bush Camp is the ultimate vintage safari camp in Botswana and it has a high season published rack rate of $425 per person per night (pppn) while Santawani Lodge is a camp of simple bungalows for only $325 high season.
For comparison the best camps operated by Wilderness Safaris, Kwando Safaris, and &Beyond all have rack rates in excess of $900 pppn and the aforementioned Mombo Camp comes in at over $1,800 pppn high season. Certainly those camps are more luxurious and in cases like Mombo many safari goers have been priced out of the premier private game viewing areas. At the present time, it may well be that the premier game viewing area is going to be only for those that can do without five star accommodation. Those who are willing to embrace the wonderful luxury of dedicated game drives from a simple safari camp that still provides absolutely everything that most people will need will do just fine. The less expensive Botswana camps are more along the lines of a style that is prevalent in the Serengeti (Tanzania) and still thrills visitors there. I have already discovered that there will be some people that don’t believe you can have as good of a game experience while paying so much less but the truth is my clients who are following this recommendation are getting the best game viewing, they just sleep in a simpler tent and don’t have a pool.
