I headed to Kenya in February to combine two of my great passions, predator conservation and safari travel. Due to my involvement in predator/livestock conflict research I wanted to visit Ol Donyo Wuas Lodge and Mara Plains Camp to learn about and witness how two different models were being used toward conserving predators, particularly big cats.

Lion populations have been in freefall throughout Africa. The expansion of livestock degrading habitat and subsequent conflict the primary factors threatening lions today. Kenya’s greatest lion and cheetah populations live in the Masai Mara Reserve and surrounding area and within the greater Amboseli-Tsavo region, which includes those two parks and the corridor of the Chylulu Hills. Kenya has far less public land than most of the other major safari countries and a prevalent pastoral livestock culture with the Maasai that is growing in population so this is a critical region that has some of the highest conflict pressure, and is thus in great need for innovative conservation initiatives to protect the big cats and other predators.

Tourism can be used to conserve big cats and other wildlife
© Bill Given

Predator Compensation Fund

The corridor between Amboseli and Tsavo is known as Maasailand - consisting of a number of large group ranches and it is a region where the land is shared between the Maasai, their livestock, wild animals, and a limited few tourism lodges who pay fees to the community for their right to operate.

Within this area lions, spotted hyenas, and cheetah frequently prey on livestock and some have become seriously habitual in this food selection. Ol Donyo Wuas Lodge lies within the Mbirikani Group Ranch along with a Maasai community of 10,000 people. Conflict with lions exploded during an 18 month period when twenty-two lions were killed, creating a dire situation. At this time in 2003 Richard Bonham, the Director of Ol Donyo Wuas, launched the predator conservation fund to compensate Maasai for their livestock losses and since that time lion killing on Mbirikani has almost come to a halt with four lions killed over a six year period, during which more than 100 lions have been killed on other group ranches in Maasailand.

A key component to the compensation program is if one lion is killed, then no one receives compensation for their claims during that two month period and that has created a peer pressure for all to conform. Further partnerships have sprung up with the Living with Lions and Lion Guardian programs that include lion biologists and community game scouts working on ways to minimize conflict as well as ensure that the compensation program works efficiently.

The successful programs have now been expanded to the neighboring group ranches. While recounting figures and strategy like this can get the points across it is hard to convey the tremendous emotions that are part of all of this, both for those dedicating their passions to conserving lions and also to the local Maasai for whom owning livestock is central to their cultural soul. I urge all to read this frenetic account of how it can all function on the ground in Maasailand.

Lion Monitoring

Biologists from Living with Lions have radio-collared the majority of the lions on the Mbirikani Group Ranch to study their movements and monitor their lives as livestock predators. The headquarters for the Maasailand Trust that administers the Predator Compensation Fund is on the grounds of Ol Donyo Wuas and they also house the base camp for Kylie, the Living with Lion biologist working in the area. I was fortunate to be invited for some time in the field with Kylie as we used radio-telemetry to track a lioness that recently had cubs. It is often possible to arrange for tourists to accompany the lion researchers, it is truly a remarkable opportunity to have a completely unique experience of being out with a lion research team and a suggested donation of $200 per person can help fund this critical work.

It is important to hire and train locals for conservation work.
Here, a Maasai field assistant for the Living with Lions team tracks a collared lion.
© Bill Given

Very different from a standard game drive our mission out was simply to find this one lioness. We proceeded to an area where she was last reported and drove to the top off a large hill to take our first telemetry reading. As the researcher moves a wand you can find the signal beacon of the collared subject if you are within range. We were fortunate to pick up a signal and have a general direction, typically you need to stop a number of times along the way and re-check the direction and strength of the signal until you can close it to sighting distance.

Along the way we found an elephant carcass and stopped to examine it. We were able to find tracks that showed our lioness along with two small cubs had indeed visited this large food source and then meandered back in to an area of rocks. Now the driving would be hard core as we bounced and tossed over a strewn carpet of hundreds of thousands of rocks. This was African pilates at its best which I was in need of after nearly 3 weeks of daily safari cocktails. The rough ride was sliced with the anticipation that we were close to finding our lion.

After about an hour of bumping around we drove along the bottom of a hillside and just as the light was fading we found our girl. About ten minutes later it was virtually dark and she headed down the hill and walked right past us, likely on the way to collect her cubs but with the rocky substrate we had no prayer to keep up with her and then started the long journey back to Ol Donyo Wuas. We had much more bushwhacking to do on our way back and that led to a quick tire change. As is typical with field biology work I arrived back for dinner just as the other lodge guests were having their post-dinner cocktails but I think my smile was the biggest as it was a true adventure with a team dedicated to conserve our planet's most iconic species.

A radio-collar does not necessarily eliminate the hard work to find a lion, we were lucky to locate our lioness just before it turned dark.
© Bill Given

This blog entry can only serve as an introduction to these complex programs, to learn more about them or contribute the cause check out the following:

Maasailand Preservation Trust
Living with Lions
Lion Guardians
Great Plains Conservation, the conservation tourism initiative for both Ol Donyo Wuas and Mara Plains
National Geographic’s Big Cat Initiative

Also keep in mind that the compensation program had done a tremendous thing in stemming the tide of predator deaths but livestock continue to be eaten and compensation is expensive so other long term mitigation methods like my Conditioned Taste Aversion research are critical moving forward. You can read more about my efforts.

Leasing Land for Wildlife: Olare Orok Conservancy

The lands surrounding the world famous Masai Mara Reserve are also Maasai owned ranch lands. Here though the tremendous wildlife densities make it a tourism mecca, to the point where there is entirely too much high density tourism that is placing its own pressure on wildlife and the area needs more acreage dedicated to wildlife and to allow for lower densities of tourists.

A leopard near Mara Plains Camp wakes to start an evening of hunting
© Bill Given

Enter a new model for Kenya, pioneered by Mara Porini Camp in the Ol Kinyei Conservancy and then brought to action in the Olare Orok Conservancy. The Olare Orok Conservancy consists of 30,000 acres that border immediately on the Masai Mara Reserve and contained Maasai homesteaders and livestock use to the point of overgrazing this potentially prime wildlife area. These factors created the perfect opportunity for wildlife to ‘pay’ it’s own way via tourism dollars, but with Kenya’s sometimes turbulent tourism industry the Maasai did not want to depend on the traditional model of being paid bed night fees so an agreement was made for safari camps to pay a monthly lease fee regardless of how many tourists come for a visit.

This guaranteed payment from the safari camps is far more valuable than the grazing of livestock is and is enough incentive for the Maasai to have removed their livestock completely and graze them on other lands that they can access. While this creates a new area dedicated to wildlife and avoids the conflict of predators with livestock, it is also structured to relieve the tourism pressure on the animals by keeping it low density.

Currently there are only three camps operating game drives and walks inside the Olare Orok Conservancy, Mara Plains Camp, Porini Lion Camp, and Kicheche Bush Camp with a fourth being built by Richard Branson, which will bring the conservancy to its density limit of 700 acres per tent. There is no doubt this far trails behind the private concession model in Botswana where sometimes there are many thousands of acres per tent. For the Masai Mara region that now contains about 4,000 beds and land that is completely encroached by large human populations, this is a huge move forward and provides much more exclusivity for both tourists and wildlife.

These lion cubs born in the Olare Orok and generations of lions to come can benefit from the Conservancy model
© Bill Given

The results have been staggering! In the three years since the Conservancy formation the grasses have bounced back and many animals have moved in to take up residency in this area of less pressure. Big cats in particular have discovered this refuge and established a strong presence. Guides, safari operators, and tourists that I encountered all thought the wildlife densities inside of Olare Orok are on par with those inside of the Mara Reserve but what is absent is the vehicles! Three vehicles at a sighting was the most I ever saw, but for about 90% of my time we were the only vehicle in view and that includes hours of sitting with big cats – leopard, cheetah, and lion. In fact, we saw thirty-three lions during six separate sightings on a two night stay. I believe this conservation model works and expansion of it in neighboring areas (has now resulted in formation of the 85,000 acre Mara North Conservancy with 14 tourism establishments) is essential for the future of the Mara region.

Some links to learn more:

Olare Orok Conservancy
Great Plains Conservation
Mara Plains Camp
Porini Lion Camp
Kicheche Bush Camp

   

The Okavango Delta is a spectacular paradise that can make driving challenging.
© Bill Given

A partnership of local guides that I know are starting a new mobile safari operation and they had discussions with me between October and January regarding marketing them to the North American market. However, we all wanted a face to face meeting to finalize details. During siesta time at Mapula Lodge, I headed north into the bush for a meeting under a tree that was part way to their villages. Arriving at this meeting location meant crossing water up to the hood of the vehicle on three occasions but we arrived right on time.

Botswana’s public parks and reserves have some of the highest wildlife densities and often deliver quality sightings like these African wild dogs that I saw hunt in Savute.
© Bill Given

Under the tree, we found a small table and chairs had been set up for our meeting complete with snacks and drinks and we were greeted by the three principals of the newly formed Superlative Tours and Safaris, a locally registered company. One of the founders is Olatotse, the recently re-elected District Councilman for the Gudigwa/Vumbura area, another is a longtime guide named Modumo who I was once guided by at Kwando Kwara camp. These two will be the head guides for this company.

The meeting began by standing one at a time and addressing the table of our intentions and then with formalities out of the way we remained seated and went over the details of this new operation, which I have agreed to market as a new product for The Wild Source. With these new partners I will be able to offer high quality mobile adventures within Botswana’s public parks and reserves at an excellent value rate of between $325 and $350 per person per night.

Public areas like Savute, Moremi, and the Central Kalahari Game Reserve contain some of Botswana’s highest wildlife densities making this a great value option for those who don’t want to pay a premium for private concessions. I am most excited that it will be possible to plan in cultural activities focused on the fascinating river bushman culture at Gudigwa giving these mobiles a very special extra wow.

Stuck in the Okavango Delta!

Dicks and Bill arrive back at Mapula Lodge with our clothes dripping wet following our self-rescue from the waters of the Delta.
Photo courtesy of Karen R.

Enthralled at having had such a productive meeting in the idyllic setting of the Okavango Delta, we headed back to Mapula Lodge as we would have a game drive with clients this afternoon. At our last high water crossing we became stuck! The tires ground down into the bottom of the Delta and all we could do now is self-rescue. Over the next hour Dicks and I would have to wade into the Delta’s waters jacking up one tire at a time and then walk onto an island and scavenge fallen trees to secure under each tire for traction. The water was at the bottom of our doors but to work under the tires required us to get wet up to our chins. It worked and we were able to back out to the other side of the channel and then create a new track to finally get to where we needed to be. We pulled in 10 minutes before our game drive to the cheers of clients who could see us in the water with binoculars from camp. It was the best commute from a meeting that I have ever had!

   

Today for the second time in 4 months I found myself with the group I am guiding in front of a Chief of a local tribe that had not had a tourist visit in a long time. In this case, we visited Sankuyo Village, home of the people that own Sankuyo Bush Camp (where we are staying) and Santawani Lodge, and we were the first ever tourists to visit from these camps.

Much like my visit in October with the Elders of Gudigwa Village, this was a fascinating and emotional experience that my clients were raving about. Establishing successful partnerships with local communities is absolutely essential for lasting wildlife conservation, and these visits have been consistently a high point for travelers. In the case of Sankuyo, the community runs a very large hunting concession, separate from the photo tourism concession, but the Head Man told me that when the hunting lease ends in a year that enormous area will be converted to photo tourism! This is because their community ownership model at Sankuyo Bush Camp and Santawani Lodge is working so well.

It is a shame that most safari visitors to Botswana have no interaction with local culture beyond the staff at their camps. I am elated to have pioneered visits to these local villages where visitors are most welcome and receive a remarkable interaction that is off the map and a sincere learning experience that flows in both directions.

Clients of The Wild Source have welcome access by invitation directly to me from the leaders of these communities who want the visits. These are very unique experiences and truly enhance a safari.

I am finding it somewhat ironic that my differentiation as a safari planner has been my expertise as a wildlife biologist but now my great interest and love of Botswana has led me to become the first to establish fascinating cultural visits to these local villages. I am very proud of this new involvement and happy to be able to enhance our clients safari experiences and deliver benefits to local people as well.

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Mona and Mark ready to board a plane to start their safari in Ruaha National Park, Tanzania

There is no doubt the best part of my job is when clients return and share the soul stirring moments that a safari inevitably produces. Fortunately, one thing that is becoming common is family safaris, whether it is a multi-generational trip or simply a parent and a daughter or son, it is a shared experience that will last and resonate between family members for all of their lives.

I was very fortunate to plan a special safari for Mona Cavalcoli and her father Mark. Mark is a retired Biology teacher and instilled his love of nature into Mona and an African Safari was the ultimate way for them to further explore this shared interest. They knew they had to see chimpanzees and then we crafted a trip around that priority. Mona has been kind to share a synopsis of their special trip with my readers, enhanced by Mark’s terrific photos. The last paragraph really captures the essence of the deep reach a safari can have to our inner African, and it just makes sense to me that a visit to our ancient home is just a perfect thing for a family to do together.

Father-Daughter Trip of a Lifetime
By Mona Cavalcoli, New York, NY

(all photos copyright Mark Cavalcoli)

Mdonya Old River Camp guide Zachariah, Mark, and Mona
relax to enjoy their first African sundown!

My dad and I took our first trip to Africa in August, thanks to the great planning of Bill Given and The Wild Source. Despite some nervousness before we left, our trip became what really was a trip of a lifetime for us.

Because we didn't want to be surrounded by other tourists, we traveled to three remote national parks in Tanzania: Ruaha, Katavi, and Mahale Mountains. The experience was so fantastic, I'm sure I could write pages and pages -- but here are some highlights of our trip:

Elephants are common in Ruaha and frequently visit right in Mdonya Old River Camp

Ruaha National Park

Ruaha: it was a nearly 2-hour drive from the airstrip to Mdonya Old River Camp where we were staying - but on that drive, we saw giraffes, elephants, zebras, impala, warthogs, monkeys, our first lion -- and all manner of stunning birds. After arriving at camp and being shown to our charming and rustic tent, we went to the main tent for lunch - and while we were eating, 3 male elephants walked up to camp and began eating the bushes less than 20 feet from us! We capped off our first day with drinks and snacks while watching the sun set over the spectacular landscape. Dad and I found it hard to believe that things could be or get any better than that first day. But every day we were in Africa was a great day.

Open sided game drive vehicles at Mdonya Old River Camp and Katuma Bush Lodge allow for intimate wildlife observation in remote National Parks.

One of the things we enjoyed about Ruaha was the rustic tents and the fact that animals roamed all over the camp. We were always on the lookout for animals while walking back and forth - and the guides were very attentive to escorting us. Cape Buffalo in particular were frequently in camp - and our nights were filled with the sounds of animals: lions growling, elephants trumpeting, hyenas, jackals, and more. Our last night at Ruaha, dad heard a fight between some lions and a cape buffalo (apparently the buffalo escaped - and somehow I slept thru the entire thing). Then, around 4 am I woke, rolled over - and saw the shape of an elephant right outside our tent window! It put its trunk up to the window and was smelling us -- and, OK, I was a little scared. It eventually turned and walked off, but we were quite thrilled at our 'close' encounter.

Katavi National Park

Observing the behavior of animals, such as this lion carrying her cub, is one of the great thrills of a safari.

After Ruaha, we headed to Katavi, where we found we were the only guests in camp at the Katuma Bush Lodge. Geoff and Colleen Mullen were the camp managers -and they treated us like family not guests. Accommodations at Katuma were fantastic, and we enjoyed having our own 'private' safari. One of our special treats at Katavi was finding a lioness with three 2-month old cubs, and spending time watching them play with each other and their mother.

Mahale National Park

Michio, a precocious young male chimpanzee (about 13 years old) known for causing chaos within Mahale’s M Group walks closely by Mona in a classic chimp trekking moment. Note that face masks are worn to protect chimpanzees from human diseases.

Our last stop was Mahale Mountains, where we went chimp trekking. For me and dad, this was a special experience as we are both huge fans of Jane Goodall. We stayed at Kungwe Beach Lodge, and were more than thrilled to hear that we were, once again, the only guests in camp. Our first day trekking we were prepared to be disappointed. Sixtus, our guide, informed us that the main troop of chimps had gone outside of their normal range and we might not see anything. We did, though! We saw three females including one baby. Tears came to my eyes upon seeing our first chimps in the wild. They were quiet, just eating in the trees, although they came down and we were able to watch them for a while on the ground. The next day, we learned the troop was back in the area, and we were able to see more of the group. For the first time, we heard them hooting and calling -- and we heard AND saw the big males doing their charging displays! Our third day of trekking we observed the chimps grooming, resting, playing, eating - even mating. Several of the males charged by us -- one, the alpha male Pim, shook branches so close to dad that one of the branches broke off and conked him in the head!

A remarkable behavior photo (Copyright Mark Cavalcoli) of a mother chimpanzee using a twig to fish for ants. This was the behavior discovered by Jane Goodall that saved her research and led to a fully funded project by shocking the world that humans were not the only tool users. This photo is even more amazing because it shows the generational learning as the young chimp studies his mother’s technique. A fitting find for two travelers who were inspired to Africa by Jane Goodall.

When it was time for the trip to end and for us to go home, I cried. We both did. In the short time we had been in Africa, it felt as though somehow it had become a part of us. We are so glad we took the trip, and can only hope that we will be able to go back someday. We would recommend our trip to anyone!

   

Over the past week or so, we've been able to process a lot of Africa Safari videos from safaris that Bill has taken in the past. We're looking at putting in a completely customizable on-demand video channel right on this site where you can search for videos by location, animals, or other content. Until that section of the website is up and running, be sure to check out the Africa Safari Video Channel at YouTube.

Today, we're featuring a couple of these videos taken by Bill in November, 2007 when he was on a Botswana safari at Deception Valley Lodge. These videos are 2 of 5 that feature Kalahari Bushmen demonstrating traditional survival skills that have been handed down from generation to generation. Those of you who are regular visitors to TheWildSource.com know that in addition to a wildlife focus, the focus is also on giving back to local communities - and providing fantastic cultural experiences to clients who are interested. These videos provide a bit of insight into the cultural opportunities that are available while you're on safari.

Bushmen Finding Water in the Kalahari Desert

This first video is of a Bushman named !Xashi (the '!' represents a click sound) digging up a root. They then shave down the root and squeeze the shavings to extract the water using the thumb as kind of a spout to direct the water into their mouth.  I have drank water with this method, it is refreshing and has a bit of a radish type flavor.  Note that the root is completely reusable. They bury it back in the sand and use it again at a later time.

Bushmen building a bird snare

This second video features two Kalahari Bushmen, !Xashi and !Xunta, building a bird snare. After carefully constructing the snare, !Xashi demonstrates with a wooden bird how the snare works - and the snare springs to life, snatching up the stick.  The same method with a slightly different design can be used to snare mammals by their leg.

For the rest of our Africa Safari Videos (they are around 50 currently) - check out the Africa Safari Video Channel at YouTube.

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The Wild Source's Africa Video Channel - safari videos taken by The Wild Source founder Bill Given