I headed to Kenya in February to combine two of my great passions, predator conservation and safari travel. Due to my involvement in predator/livestock conflict research I wanted to visit Ol Donyo Wuas Lodge and Mara Plains Camp to learn about and witness how two different models were being used toward conserving predators, particularly big cats.

Lion populations have been in freefall throughout Africa. The expansion of livestock degrading habitat and subsequent conflict the primary factors threatening lions today. Kenya’s greatest lion and cheetah populations live in the Masai Mara Reserve and surrounding area and within the greater Amboseli-Tsavo region, which includes those two parks and the corridor of the Chylulu Hills. Kenya has far less public land than most of the other major safari countries and a prevalent pastoral livestock culture with the Maasai that is growing in population so this is a critical region that has some of the highest conflict pressure, and is thus in great need for innovative conservation initiatives to protect the big cats and other predators.

Tourism can be used to conserve big cats and other wildlife
© Bill Given

Predator Compensation Fund

The corridor between Amboseli and Tsavo is known as Maasailand - consisting of a number of large group ranches and it is a region where the land is shared between the Maasai, their livestock, wild animals, and a limited few tourism lodges who pay fees to the community for their right to operate.

Within this area lions, spotted hyenas, and cheetah frequently prey on livestock and some have become seriously habitual in this food selection. Ol Donyo Wuas Lodge lies within the Mbirikani Group Ranch along with a Maasai community of 10,000 people. Conflict with lions exploded during an 18 month period when twenty-two lions were killed, creating a dire situation. At this time in 2003 Richard Bonham, the Director of Ol Donyo Wuas, launched the predator conservation fund to compensate Maasai for their livestock losses and since that time lion killing on Mbirikani has almost come to a halt with four lions killed over a six year period, during which more than 100 lions have been killed on other group ranches in Maasailand.

A key component to the compensation program is if one lion is killed, then no one receives compensation for their claims during that two month period and that has created a peer pressure for all to conform. Further partnerships have sprung up with the Living with Lions and Lion Guardian programs that include lion biologists and community game scouts working on ways to minimize conflict as well as ensure that the compensation program works efficiently.

The successful programs have now been expanded to the neighboring group ranches. While recounting figures and strategy like this can get the points across it is hard to convey the tremendous emotions that are part of all of this, both for those dedicating their passions to conserving lions and also to the local Maasai for whom owning livestock is central to their cultural soul. I urge all to read this frenetic account of how it can all function on the ground in Maasailand.

Lion Monitoring

Biologists from Living with Lions have radio-collared the majority of the lions on the Mbirikani Group Ranch to study their movements and monitor their lives as livestock predators. The headquarters for the Maasailand Trust that administers the Predator Compensation Fund is on the grounds of Ol Donyo Wuas and they also house the base camp for Kylie, the Living with Lion biologist working in the area. I was fortunate to be invited for some time in the field with Kylie as we used radio-telemetry to track a lioness that recently had cubs. It is often possible to arrange for tourists to accompany the lion researchers, it is truly a remarkable opportunity to have a completely unique experience of being out with a lion research team and a suggested donation of $200 per person can help fund this critical work.

It is important to hire and train locals for conservation work.
Here, a Maasai field assistant for the Living with Lions team tracks a collared lion.
© Bill Given

Very different from a standard game drive our mission out was simply to find this one lioness. We proceeded to an area where she was last reported and drove to the top off a large hill to take our first telemetry reading. As the researcher moves a wand you can find the signal beacon of the collared subject if you are within range. We were fortunate to pick up a signal and have a general direction, typically you need to stop a number of times along the way and re-check the direction and strength of the signal until you can close it to sighting distance.

Along the way we found an elephant carcass and stopped to examine it. We were able to find tracks that showed our lioness along with two small cubs had indeed visited this large food source and then meandered back in to an area of rocks. Now the driving would be hard core as we bounced and tossed over a strewn carpet of hundreds of thousands of rocks. This was African pilates at its best which I was in need of after nearly 3 weeks of daily safari cocktails. The rough ride was sliced with the anticipation that we were close to finding our lion.

After about an hour of bumping around we drove along the bottom of a hillside and just as the light was fading we found our girl. About ten minutes later it was virtually dark and she headed down the hill and walked right past us, likely on the way to collect her cubs but with the rocky substrate we had no prayer to keep up with her and then started the long journey back to Ol Donyo Wuas. We had much more bushwhacking to do on our way back and that led to a quick tire change. As is typical with field biology work I arrived back for dinner just as the other lodge guests were having their post-dinner cocktails but I think my smile was the biggest as it was a true adventure with a team dedicated to conserve our planet's most iconic species.

A radio-collar does not necessarily eliminate the hard work to find a lion, we were lucky to locate our lioness just before it turned dark.
© Bill Given

This blog entry can only serve as an introduction to these complex programs, to learn more about them or contribute the cause check out the following:

Maasailand Preservation Trust
Living with Lions
Lion Guardians
Great Plains Conservation, the conservation tourism initiative for both Ol Donyo Wuas and Mara Plains
National Geographic’s Big Cat Initiative

Also keep in mind that the compensation program had done a tremendous thing in stemming the tide of predator deaths but livestock continue to be eaten and compensation is expensive so other long term mitigation methods like my Conditioned Taste Aversion research are critical moving forward. You can read more about my efforts.

Leasing Land for Wildlife: Olare Orok Conservancy

The lands surrounding the world famous Masai Mara Reserve are also Maasai owned ranch lands. Here though the tremendous wildlife densities make it a tourism mecca, to the point where there is entirely too much high density tourism that is placing its own pressure on wildlife and the area needs more acreage dedicated to wildlife and to allow for lower densities of tourists.

A leopard near Mara Plains Camp wakes to start an evening of hunting
© Bill Given

Enter a new model for Kenya, pioneered by Mara Porini Camp in the Ol Kinyei Conservancy and then brought to action in the Olare Orok Conservancy. The Olare Orok Conservancy consists of 30,000 acres that border immediately on the Masai Mara Reserve and contained Maasai homesteaders and livestock use to the point of overgrazing this potentially prime wildlife area. These factors created the perfect opportunity for wildlife to ‘pay’ it’s own way via tourism dollars, but with Kenya’s sometimes turbulent tourism industry the Maasai did not want to depend on the traditional model of being paid bed night fees so an agreement was made for safari camps to pay a monthly lease fee regardless of how many tourists come for a visit.

This guaranteed payment from the safari camps is far more valuable than the grazing of livestock is and is enough incentive for the Maasai to have removed their livestock completely and graze them on other lands that they can access. While this creates a new area dedicated to wildlife and avoids the conflict of predators with livestock, it is also structured to relieve the tourism pressure on the animals by keeping it low density.

Currently there are only three camps operating game drives and walks inside the Olare Orok Conservancy, Mara Plains Camp, Porini Lion Camp, and Kicheche Bush Camp with a fourth being built by Richard Branson, which will bring the conservancy to its density limit of 700 acres per tent. There is no doubt this far trails behind the private concession model in Botswana where sometimes there are many thousands of acres per tent. For the Masai Mara region that now contains about 4,000 beds and land that is completely encroached by large human populations, this is a huge move forward and provides much more exclusivity for both tourists and wildlife.

These lion cubs born in the Olare Orok and generations of lions to come can benefit from the Conservancy model
© Bill Given

The results have been staggering! In the three years since the Conservancy formation the grasses have bounced back and many animals have moved in to take up residency in this area of less pressure. Big cats in particular have discovered this refuge and established a strong presence. Guides, safari operators, and tourists that I encountered all thought the wildlife densities inside of Olare Orok are on par with those inside of the Mara Reserve but what is absent is the vehicles! Three vehicles at a sighting was the most I ever saw, but for about 90% of my time we were the only vehicle in view and that includes hours of sitting with big cats – leopard, cheetah, and lion. In fact, we saw thirty-three lions during six separate sightings on a two night stay. I believe this conservation model works and expansion of it in neighboring areas (has now resulted in formation of the 85,000 acre Mara North Conservancy with 14 tourism establishments) is essential for the future of the Mara region.

Some links to learn more:

Olare Orok Conservancy
Great Plains Conservation
Mara Plains Camp
Porini Lion Camp
Kicheche Bush Camp

   

Often known as the San, a name incorrectly attached to this culture by early anthropologists utilizing a derogatory name that livestock owning tribes assigned to these First People who remained true to the hunting-gathering way of life. DNA tests have traced all other cultures back to these original people, and thus the opportunity to visit with your most ancient ancestors lets you tap into the very root of who we all are.

Cultural Visits at Grassland Bushman Lodge

Nowhere can this experience be more well done than from Grassland Bushman Lodge (also known as Grasslands Safaris). The exceptional difference offered here is the family that owns the lodge has lived in the area for 5 generations and worked side by side with the bushman for decades.

Authentic visits with Bushmen

The DeGraff family arrived as part of the Rhodes party to become the first large-scale cattle farmers in Botswana. Neeltjie, who manages the lodge as well as her sister and father all speak fluent Naro bushman language. This means you can ask any questions you want as well as receive true translations of all that is happening in the company of the bushman.

This makes for a much deeper experience than guests receive when they go on simple bushman walks that usually consist of 2 men doing a set routine which a guide interprets activities but not the language. At Grasslands, time with bushmen includes men and women and is multi-generational allowing visitors to experience the entire bushman society.

Each time out is somewhat different and as seasons change so do the important things the bushman show you. For example on our January visit, the foods gathered were quite different than when I was there for an April visit. The travel writer expert, Dave Fox, who co-guided this writing safari with me had a number of questions and did a full-on interview with these fascinating people easily translated in both directions by Neeljie – something likely not possible at any other safari lodge.

Our day spent with amazing people was certainly one of the very top highlights for all in the group and I could see the wonder on their faces and the excitement in their voices. I only wish that every person could somehow visit the first of us. Spending time with the bushmen provides a new vantage point to observe our own lives making it a poignant experience that stays with one long after the visits and your return to home.

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The Wild Source's Africa Video Channel - safari videos taken by The Wild Source founder Bill Given

   

Today for the second time in 4 months I found myself with the group I am guiding in front of a Chief of a local tribe that had not had a tourist visit in a long time. In this case, we visited Sankuyo Village, home of the people that own Sankuyo Bush Camp (where we are staying) and Santawani Lodge, and we were the first ever tourists to visit from these camps.

Much like my visit in October with the Elders of Gudigwa Village, this was a fascinating and emotional experience that my clients were raving about. Establishing successful partnerships with local communities is absolutely essential for lasting wildlife conservation, and these visits have been consistently a high point for travelers. In the case of Sankuyo, the community runs a very large hunting concession, separate from the photo tourism concession, but the Head Man told me that when the hunting lease ends in a year that enormous area will be converted to photo tourism! This is because their community ownership model at Sankuyo Bush Camp and Santawani Lodge is working so well.

It is a shame that most safari visitors to Botswana have no interaction with local culture beyond the staff at their camps. I am elated to have pioneered visits to these local villages where visitors are most welcome and receive a remarkable interaction that is off the map and a sincere learning experience that flows in both directions.

Clients of The Wild Source have welcome access by invitation directly to me from the leaders of these communities who want the visits. These are very unique experiences and truly enhance a safari.

I am finding it somewhat ironic that my differentiation as a safari planner has been my expertise as a wildlife biologist but now my great interest and love of Botswana has led me to become the first to establish fascinating cultural visits to these local villages. I am very proud of this new involvement and happy to be able to enhance our clients safari experiences and deliver benefits to local people as well.

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The Wild Source's Africa Video Channel - safari videos taken by The Wild Source founder Bill Given

   

Meet the Kuria Tribe of Tanzania

When I guide groups I strive to find a unique cultural opportunity, somewhere to experience local life that is lightly touristed, if at all. From Lemala Camp in the Northern Serengeti I was able to arrange a visit to the boma of one of the staff members, a behind the scenes worker named Cha Cha. His people are the Kuria Tribe that once occupied the northern reaches of the Serengeti but when there was a disease outbreak impacting their cattle they moved outside of the park where they still graze cattle but also grow crops.

An excited boy shows off for his unusual visitors.
Photo © Bill Given

Kuria Tribe Bomas

We were excitedly received in the Kuria Tribe family boma, this was not a typical activity for them and not part of any kind of regular tourism program – we simply had a special visit to see how some of these local people live.

Photo of a Boma within the Kuria Tribe Village
Photo © Bill Given

The boma consisted of a fenced circular area and contained one mud and thatch hut for each of the ‘fathers’ wives and their children. This particular boma was for a man with eight wives so there were eight little huts for habitation. Inside of the boma was another circular fenced area for livestock and chickens during the night, all range free during the day.

Kuria Culture: Music

Music is important part of the Kuria Culture.
Photo © Bill Given

A traditional lyre type of instrument known as an iritungu was brought out and lots of dancing followed. This is typical of any big life events in Kuria culture, such as weddings where music and dance play big roles.

Dancing and Celebration with the Kuria People

Cha Cha teaches me some traditional dance moves.
Photo © Bill Given, Clients of TWS

This visit was definitely a highlight for everyone in our group. Getting to meet local people and see how they live, rather than just having a tourist show is an important part of the travel experience and a real privilege when you are hosted by such wonderful people.

   

60 Minutes aired a piece on The Great Migration hours ago on October 4th. 60 Minutes correspondent Scott Pelley went to Kenya to cover The Great Migration and his focus was primarily on the state of the Great Migration and how it could be affected in the future by the dwindling water level of the Mara River. If the Mara river dried up, it would likely be devestating for wildebeest, crocodiles, and all other animals in the region that are connected to the Great Migration.

Photo of Great Migration Wildebeest - Tanzania - August, 2009
©Bill Given

Bill's Great Migration Video (August 2009)

Bill recently travelled to Tanzania and was able to witness the Great Migration. While we're still working on processing most of the video - Bill did shoot this video at the end of August which shows just how low the Mara river is in places - and how easy it was for the wildebeest to cross. Keep in mind, this video is not the same high quality of the 60 Minutes Great Migration video, but it does demonstrate just exactly how low the river is.

The Great Migration: Drought + Development = Dwindling Water

It was mentioned in the 60 Minutes story that the Masai don't remember the Mara River ever being this low. For the story, Scott Pelley travelled upstream and development of land for agricultural purposes was identified as the key culprit resulting in lower water levels. There is little doubt that development is playing a major role in the water levels, but the severe drought in East Africa is obviously playing a major part in lower water levels this year. While upstream, Pelley uncovered a common problem in Africa - finding a balance between supporting a robust wildlife population while at the same time providing a way for local people to survive.

View the 60 Minutes Great Migration Piece on the CBS Website

The 60 minutes piece is worth a look - to view the video, click here - the focus is primarily on the human caused threats to the Great Migration - but they also have dramatic footage of a wildebeest being taken down by crocodiles in the relatively shallow Mara River.