A while back, I started a four part series on reviews of camps in the Selinda Reserve - this is the final post from that series:

• Part I: Selinda Reserve Accommodation Overview
• Part II: Selinda Camp Review
• Part III: Zarafa Camp Review
• Selinda Reserve Summary and Wrap-up

Selinda Camp and Zarafa Camp Summary

Selinda Camp is a luxury camp that has the typical amenities of high end luxury camps. It offers a luxury experience in the Selinda Reserve that is about a third less than Zarafa Camp. Zarafa Camp offers an ultra luxury experience. The focus at Zarafa is just as much about relaxing at the camp as it is the game related activities.

The Selinda Canoe Trail

A wrap-up of the Selinda Reserve wouldn't be complete without mention of the Selinda Canoe Trail. I do realize that Selinda Camp and Zarafa Camp offer luxury, and more luxury. If you'd like to mix it up a bit and add a little adventure to the itinerary, I strongly recommend the Selinda Canoe Trail. I have blogged previously about the Selinda Canoe Trail. For people who love active adventure and enjoy both real wilderness camping and some luxury, the ideal trip is a 4 day paddle down the Selinda Spillway with dome tent camping ending with a couple nights of luxury with Selinda Camp or Zarafa Camp.

Bedroom area of Zarafa guest tent with living room beyond
© Bill Given

This is the third in a four part blog post which provides reviews of the Selinda Reserve, Zarafa Camp, and Selinda Camp. Here are the other blog posts from this series:

• Part I: Selinda Reserve Accommodation Overview
• Part II: Selinda Camp Review
• Part III: Zarafa Camp Review
• Selinda Reserve Summary and Wrap-up

Zarafa Camp Review

Botswana has become famous for its extraordinary luxury tented camps, places that can deliver top world accommodation standards but do it deep in the African bush. These ultra-chic camps were started with Wilderness Safaris and dubbed to be their 6 paw properties starting with the famed Mombo Camp. In fact, all the other guests I met at Zarafa Camp were on a circuit of the 6 paw level camps combining Zarafa with Mombo Camp and Vumbura Plains. I imagine this is typically the case because Zarafa camp is meant for those looking for and willing to pay for the most opulent luxury safaris available. Zarafa Camp not only belongs in this grouping but it could possibly be the leader of them all.

Private plunge pools and expansive views are part of the luxury at Zarafa Camp
© Bill Given

To me Zarafa Camp is a camp of contrasts. It is small in that there are only four guest tents yet the tents are massive, 1,000 square feet plus the surrounding deck with private plunge pool and outdoor shower. The décor is a very appealing vintage Africa of the Hemmingway safari days but you have the modern convenience of picking up a World War II era phone and ordering drinks.

Can Zarafa Camp be Luxurious and Eco Friendly? 

Zarafa camp has undergone dedicated effort to be very green and succeeded with a large solar farm that provides 100% of their 24 hour electricity and they used recycled rail ties to build the extensive decking for the central lounge and guest tent areas significantly mitigating their footprint, yet with private plunge pools and tents the size of three normal luxury tents it is hard for me to consider it in the class with the most eco-friendly safari camps. The fact is you just can’t be all things, but it is good to try and I appreciate the efforts to minimize impact but what Zarafa does best is deliver ultimate luxury in a Botswana paradise.

In room bar station can be stocked with your favorites and ice is on hand as well
© Bill Given

Guest tents are canvas on raised decking and have a complete living room with a bar station, writing desk, the aforementioned phone to the Zarafa office for any needs, and a charging inverter. There are also some goodies for wildlife fanatics at Zarafa Camp, a shelf of field guides and other wildlife books, a spotting scope and there is a trunk that contains a yoga mat as well as a Canon 40D camera with 18-135 and 100-400 lenses, tri-pod, memory cards and camera pack. The Zarafa Camp lounge has a computer to burn a disc with your images on departure.

Zarafa tent goodie chest includes a serious Canon camera kit ready to go as well as yoga mats
© Bill Given

The next section of the tent is the bed room and dressing area. The area features an enormous bed with the finest linens under a mosquito net with a ceiling fan. Immediately adjacent to the bedroom area as it transitions to the bathroom there is a stylish copper gas heating unit that feels like a swanky fire place. The rest of the main tent has an indoor shower, double copper sink basins, and copper soaking tub, while the copper flush toilet is in its own separate area.

Gas copper heating unit and copper soaking tub in background
© Bill Given

Zarafa Camp's Stellar Outdoor Area

For me the private outdoor area at Zarafa Camp is actually the best part. The views over Zibadianja Lagoon from the deck are extraordinary, definitely one of Botswana’s most magnificent settings. You can observe game at the lagoon from inside your plunge pool at Zarafa Camp, especially nice after helping oneself to the in-tent Amarula at your bar station.

Zarafa Camp Showers
If I had it my way I would never take a shower indoors on safari and a pleasant surprise for me was the outdoor surround shower (no idea what it should be called), one that had multiple tracks spraying water sideways in addition to the overhead shower. This was like getting some kind of massage spa treatment just for doing something I needed to do anyway – take a shower.

The Zarafa Camp open air surround shower is a unique indulgence
© Bill Given

Zarafa Camp Common Areas

The common areas at Zarafa Camp are also extremely large with a living room, library, formal dining area and extensive outdoor decks for dining, fire, and just relaxing. All appointed at the same high luxury vintage safari style. Food was outstanding, some of the very best that I have had on safari.

One thing that I have found that typically comes with ultra-luxury is there is an emphasis on the in-camp experience and a more formalized service standard. For example, at Zarafa the suggested game drive time in the morning was a ½ hour later than at Selinda Camp and when it came to the afternoon schedule the advice was meet at 4 (again ½ hour later than other camps I’d been to on this trip) for tea and then head out 4:30-4:45 whenever everyone feels ready. Since vehicles are shared at most Botswana camps, typically there is a set time to make sure everyone gets their full time in on the game drive. Of course management is flexible and different times can be requested but when sharing a vehicle you are somewhat limited.

This was also the only camp I visited that had foreign managers, which I assume is to deliver a refined standard that is more typical of the traditional South African style lodge safari. In my brief stay, I felt like the two management couples did a great job but it is definitely a different atmosphere from the more laid-back locally managed camps, so it is important to determine what your safari style is when choosing your luxury level.

Outdoor dining with huge views over Zibadianja Lagoon
© Bill Given

Zarafa Camp Summary

Zarafa Camp is a great choice for those who want to safari in the lap of luxury, including having more romantic down time in camp to enjoy the amenities with a little less length to the game activities that can tire some people out by the end of their trip.

   

Aerial view of Selinda Camp.
Courtesy of Great Plains Conservation

This is a very special four part blog post which provides reviews of the Selinda Reserve, Selinda Camp, and Zarafa Camp. I'll be providing new information as I can, but here's what you can expect from this series of blog posts:

• Part I: Selinda Reserve Accommodation Overview
• Part II: Selinda Camp Review
• Part III: Zarafa Camp Review
• Part IV: Selinda Reserve Summary and Wrap-up

Selinda Reserve Accommodations Overview

As I mentioned in my previous blog post from my visit to the Selinda Reserve, nowhere else in Botswana has the environment and the accommodation changed so much in the last couple of years.

The Selinda Reserve area has long been known for its beauty and formerly housed two camps, Selinda Camp and Zibadianja Camp that were rustic, known for hard core game viewing and amongst the better values in Botswana. Legendary filmmakers Dereck and Beverly Joubert head a small partnership that purchased the camps and in 2007 launched completely rebuilt camps to a new standard and style quite contrasting with the former camps. Though the camps are part of the Great Plains Conservation portfolio the camps are currently marketed by the well known Wilderness Safaris and the standards and daily operations are very similar to other Wilderness products.

Selinda Camp is roughly on par with the other Wilderness 5 paw camps, though it would be at the top for luxury in that category. Zibadianja Camp was re-located to a larger area to hold the enormous and ultra-luxurious tents that are the pinnacle of Botswana luxury, one of the small handful of 6 paw level camps, and was subsequently renamed Zarafa Camp.

Selinda Camp manager Ishmael pilots a powerboat on the Selinda Spillway.
© Bill Given

Activities

Due to the influx of water in the Selinda Reserve a diversity of activities is now a real strength. While they still offer day and night game drives it is also possible to do walks, power boating, canoeing (including a multi-day adventure camping paddle), and fishing (fly-fishing for those who bring their own rod) making it a very good location for active travelers wanting to do more than just game drives. There are photographic hides located by water resources and it is also possible to arrange a sleepout on an elevated platform with just a mattress and mosquito net for a sensational wilderness experience if you are willing to give up a night in your tent.

Open sided Land Cruisers are used at Selinda Camp and Zarafa Camp.
© Bill Given

Game drives are conducted in open sided land cruisers that contain bucket seats. I like the bucket seats and consider it more comfortable, especially when off road, compared to bench seats. The canopy is a little low for those sitting in the back row which can make viewing animals in trees or flight a bit difficult at some angles.

Selinda Reserve Wildlife Tracking

One major shortcoming is in the Selinda Reserve they do not use trackers on game drives, this is consistent with all Wilderness Safaris camps in Botswana. I believe this lessens the game drive experience as Botswana’s sandy substrate allows for dynamic active tracking of animals, especially predators. I have also found that having a tracker that can concentrate on spotting animals and working the spotlight at night leads to better results than having a guide try to drive, communicate with clients, and do all the other tasks and in the case of getting stuck or having a tire puncture things go much quicker with a staff of 2. Lastly, but perhaps most importantly, the tracker position is one of the higher compensated jobs in a safari camp and lasting conservation depends upon maximum benefits reaching the local communities.

The Selinda Reserve camps are very interested in strengthening their relationship with the river bushman community of Gudigwa where I have a number of ties and I have recommended that a great way to do that and improve their product at the same time would be to employee bushmen as trackers. Selinda operations folks have been in good communication with me and seem interested in this idea so I’m hopeful that in the future there may well be trackers sitting on the front of the vehicle.

Selinda Camp vs. Zarafa Camp

The activities which I just mentioned in the Selinda reserve are the same regardless of which camp you choose to stay at. I'll be covering Selinda Camp and Zarafa Camp in the next two blog posts. You'll find that the difference between the camps is the level of luxury: luxury vs. opulent luxury.

   

Selinda’s current specialty is leopards and this male was particularly relaxed.
© Bill Given

I finished guiding my group and then headed on to the legendary Selinda Reserve, a huge wedge of land that lies between the game rich Kwando and Linyanti Concessions. The Selinda area has likely undergone more change in the last couple years than any other location in Botswana, both environmentally and with accommodation. Large floods in the past two years have added a significant amount of surface water here and for the first time in nearly thirty years the Selinda spillway flowed to the point of connecting the Okavango Delta with the Kwando/Linyanti river systems.

All of this water has caused some species to disperse- some concentrations of animals inside the Selinda concession. However, I have been very excited about a new canoeing adventure (Selinda Canoe Trail) that is a multiday paddle and camping trip. The canoe trip is actually one of the better cost values available during Botswana high season (June through October) and its natural to finish with a couple nights at one of the luxury camps in the Selinda Reserve so I wanted to visit for myself.

A well known guide, Steve K., who gained his skills and built his reputation at the Kwando Camps has been guiding at Selinda Camp for the past two years. I learned the area is very good for leopard and they have nine known individuals and sightings of these beautiful cats is frequent.

In my two nights I had two leopard sightings. The first was a shy female in a tree who left after a minute. The second was a male near Zarafa Camp who was extremely relaxed laying on the ground and we stayed with him for close to two hours before leaving him to a nap and to catch my exit flight.

Currently, two male lions are spending the majority of their time inside the concession and there are a couple females that are expected to bring out cubs very soon. Sighting these lions is a regular occurrence, I saw them once and heard them the second night too, though they can slip out to a neighboring concession from time to time.

African wild dogs come and go frequently and the Selinda concession remains a well used part of the range for two packs though they typically den in the neighboring concessions.

Cheetah have become a very infrequent occurrence as the main two cheetah that used the area are tending to stay on the other side of the Savuti Channel within the Linyanti concession and they are hesitant to swim the channel. However, Selinda Concession is receiving two male cheetah that have been captured on the Ghanzi cattle farms where they come into conflict with livestock. The cheetah will be relocated to Selinda where they will receive a ‘soft’ release, moving into a large boma (fenced) area inside the reserve within the next month and then it is anticipated they will be released onto the reserve in May. Considering there is a very strong coalition of males dominating the Kwando concession and then the Savuti Channel forms somewhat of a barrier to movement to the southeast its quite likely these cheetah will remain in the unoccupied area of the Selinda concession enhancing the diversity of predators.

Beyond my good luck with big cats I was fortunate to have a quality daytime sighting of an African wild cat.
© Bill Given

There were quite a few elephants but they come and go during the green season, while the buffalo disappear completely into the mopane woodland. In the dry season large quantities of both species frequent the area. The permanent water makes Selinda a good place to see the handsome red lechwe and the bird life is very good, especially in the water areas, while the woodland edges are a good place to find roan and sable antelope.

A red lechwe dashes through the water of the Selinda Spillway.
© Bill Given

Next up I will review the accommodation in the Selinda Reserve.

   

Zarafa Camp

Zarafa Camp is the final Botswana stop for the Journaling Safari 2010. Like Selidna Camp which was the previous safari stop - Zarafa Camp is also located within the Selinda Reserve. The camp overlooks the flood plains of Zibadianja Lagoon. The camp prides itself on being "green" in that electricity is provided by solar and materials used in construction of the camp are recycled.

Wildlife Viewing at Zarafa Camp

Zarafa Camp's location near the lagoon does provide prime wildlife viewing opportunities. Leopard, Lions, African Wild Dogs, antelope, giraffe, elephants and zebra all frequent the area in and around Zarafa Camp. Visitors have the opportunities to view these animals on game drives (both day and night) as well as guided walks.

Zarafa Camp Accommodations

Zafara Camp is a luxurious camp. All guest tents have a lounge, private plunge pool, copper baths and indoor/outdoor showers. All tents are supplied with Canon D40 digital cameras and lenses. Guests are given a CD of the photos that they take while out on game drives.

Next up: Layover in Johannesburg prior to moving on to Kenya - to see all of the destinations on the 2010 journaling safari, see the itinerary and map (both below).

2010 Journaling Safari Destinations

• Day 1: Arrival in Johannesburg, South Africa
• Day 2 - Day 4: Sankuyo Bush Camp, Botswana
• Day 5 - Day 7: Grassland Bushman Lodge, Botswana
• Day 8 - Day 10: Mapula Lodge, Botswana
• Day 11: Selinda Camp, Botswana
• Day 12: Zarafa Camp, Botswana
• Day 13: Layover in Johannesburg, South Africa
• Day 14-15: Ol Donyo Wuas, Kenya
• Day 16-17: Mara Plains, Kenya

Interactive Safari Map

You can follow along all of the destinations for the Journaling Safari 2010 by using the interactive map below. You can expand, resize, and click on the pins for a bit more information about the destinations as well as the dates where Bill will be at a given destination.